You’ll more than likely find your chain is loose and you’ll need to tension it. You’ll not need to add in the extra link this time. You’ll just run it over your rear cog and front ring and then pull it tight. Walking your wheel backįor either system of rear end, you’ll need to set your chain up in a similar way to the geared bike. If you have your chain too loose, you’ll find yourself pedaling squares rather than circles and possibly having the chain fly off. If you run your chain over tight, you’ll wear down your drivetrain and bearings super fast. You’ll also want to make sure your wheel is still centered when you get this tension. You can check this by prodding the top of your chain with your finger. What you are aiming for is ½” of deflection. Regardless of the system, the end goal is a perfect chain tension. If you’re really lucky your frame will have built-in tensioners or sliding dropouts. One is to walk your wheel into place, and the other is to use chain tensioners, of a different style from above. There are 2 ways to tension your chain on a set of horizontal dropouts. View on Horizontal dropout chain tension You’ll want to make sure the wheels on the Melvin line up with your rear cog and once you’ve done that you’ll be all good to go. The Paul Components Melvin chain tensioner is an American made piece of art that makes sure you get enough chain wrap and don’t have to worry whether your frame prefers a push up or push down model of tensioner. If you use a push down and don’t get enough chain wrap, it will constantly feel like your bike is trying to change gear. A push up does the opposite.įor many people, the push up is the better model as it allows your chain to wrap around more of the rear cog. Push down or push up.Ī push down tensioner is one that pushes down on your chain to create the correct tension. When running a vertical dropout as a single speed, you’ll quickly realize that with no room to move your wheel you can’t get a perfectly tensioned wheel. The other type is a vertical dropout conversion. One is the type that uses some form of horizontal dropout or some sort of sliding dropout. Once you have done that you can follow all the steps above. If you have a bike with rear suspension, you’ll also need to disconnect your shock and compress the linkage. The largest to largest method works for all geared bikes. Going with an extra link will account for the room taken up by the chain passing through the derailleur. The link will be the one hanging down, not one of the ones on the front chainring. A link is an inner and outer or 2 rivets. To account for the fact that we missed the derailleur, we’ll then go along one more link. If when you pull the chain snug, you have an outer to outer, you’ll need to go to the next inner. Remember an outer can only join an inner and vice versa. Find the closest rivet at which points the chain can be joined. Then pull the rest of the chain towards the chain and master link on the front chainring. Take the rest of the chain and wrap it around the largest rear cassette cog, still keeping your derailleur in the smallest cog. Then look at your chain and if it has an outer plate at one end and the inner plate at the other, if it has an outer plate then pull that end through the front derailleur and down to around the 5 ‘o’ clock position, just before the bottom dead center. The first thing you need to here is you need to shift your front derailleur on to the big ring and your rear derailleur on to the smallest cog. View on If there is no chain on your bike It is very easy to take out a link more than you meant to accidentally or to force a pin through and damage a side plate on the chain. When using a chain tool, it is better to take your time and do the job slowly. If you have a BMX half-link chain, you’ll want to get a half-link specific chain tool. The CT-5 can break any chain from a single speed chain to a new 12-speed chain, the only chain we would avoid using it with is a BMX half-link chain. You can easily fit it in your tool kit and even in a saddle bag if you’re going for a longer jaunt. The Park Tool CT-5 chain tool is a great choice as isn’t too expensive, and it also doesn’t take up a lot of room. To carry out splitting your old chain and removing links from the new chain, you’ll need a chain tool. Pretty simple and now all you’ll need to do is fit it and sit back knowing your job here is done unless you own a single speed and we’ll come back to them further down the article. The first thing to do is if you have a chain already on your bike, make your new chain the same length as the old one. View on If there is a chain already on the bike
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